Simple and elegant

Oyster Creek Inn owner Sharon Robinson holds a plate of Samish Bay oysters. The restaurant serves four to six varieties of fresh oysters each day. PHILIP D. DWYER HERALD PHOTO

Oyster Creek Inn delights all the senses

Stacee Sledge

Feb 28, 2002 The hillside underneath the historic Oyster Creek Inn on Chuckanut Drive was slipping slowly from its steep perch, threatening to take with it one of the area's finest restaurants.

Al and Pat Digerness, proprietors of several area restaurants over the years, have owned the land since the early 1970s. For the past 18 years, the Oyster Creek Inn was owned and successfully operated by Mick August, now in charge of Fino Wine Bar and Fine Food in Bellingham.

To save the sliding structure, the restaurant closed its doors and plans were engineered and executed. A crane held up the building for a time, and eventually 650 tons of concrete and steel were built into the bedrock to stabilize the building and its foundation.

The project was supposed to take six months. This past November, after nearly two years, the restaurant finally reopened its doors with new owner Sharon Robinson, formerly of La Conner Seafood and Prime Rib House, at the helm.

I made two trips down the curvy road to the Oyster Creek Inn, so I could experience both the daylight and after-dark versions.

Stepping into Oyster Creek Inn is like taking a step back in time. A framed black and white photo taken in 1928 hangs prominently in the entry, showing the original building with the words "lunches" and "beer" written in large, straight block letters on its side.

On my first visit, I brought my mother along, who was visiting from Iowa. We arrived well after dark and found the secluded restaurant enchanting. Fresh flower arrangements and flickering candles were sprinkled throughout the dark-wood entry and cream-colored dining room.

Oyster Creek Inn

Location:
2190 Chuckanut Drive, Bow

Phone: 766-6179

Serving: Contemporary Northwest dining in a lush, breathtaking Chuckanut Drive setting.

Menu items sampled:
Mixed wild greens $5

Oven baked Brie $8
Crab and prawn fettuccine $22
Pork "porterhouse" steak $21
Crème brûlée $6.00

We were led to a round window table that was draped in contrasting fabrics and topped with thick glass. The majority of the dozen or so tables are placed at the panes, allowing patrons to ooh and ahh over the magnificent views of the chum salmon stream far below.

The sound of water rushing over the rocks below was hypnotic. Bright spotlights illuminated the brook, offering a view even in the inky dark.

"We like to keep it as elegant and simple as possible," I heard our server say to the next table. She was right on both counts. Elegant and simple describes both the décor and ambience of the Oyster Creek Inn, as well as its take on contemporary Northwest cuisine.

Our server was extremely knowledgeable about the food and its preparations, answering questions and helping guide our selections. Owner Sharon Robinson stopped by all the tables periodically to ask how things were and answer any questions. She was genuinely engaging, and made us feel welcome.

Triangles of hot focaccia bread were served, accompanied by cruets of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The crunchy bread had been rubbed with olive oil and fresh basil, adding further flavor and interest.

My gargantuan "Pork 'porterhouse' steak," decorated with a sprig of fresh rosemary, was succulent and extremely tender on the inside, the outside covered with an exquisite Gorgonzola cream sauce. The sauce was light, more of a demi-glace really, and was heaving with wild mushrooms, whole roasted garlic cloves, and sun-dried tomatoes. Two decorative pipings of mashed potatoes, made with chive, fennel and a touch of sour cream, were served on the side, along with a generous mound of cooked, julienned vegetables, topped with shredded Parmesan.

My mother ordered the crab and prawn fettuccine. Small piles of basil ribbons decorated the rim of the shallow bowl, and the noodles were slathered in a basic, flavorful béchamel sauce finished with grated pepper and a dusting of Parmesan. The crab meat was sweet and the prawns sizeable and impressive. It was fun to watch Mom's response to the fresh seafood, as opposed to the frozen she's accustomed to in Iowa.

From the variety of tempting desserts including dark chocolate mousse, drunken pear, peach crumble, and cheesecake we chose the crème brûlée. The fragile, silky custard was capped with a crunchy caramelized topping and speckled throughout with bits of fresh vanilla bean. A triangle-shaped sugary wafer was propped up jauntily at the rim of its ramekin.

Approaching the restaurant during daylight hours means a breathtaking ride along the rocky shoulder of Chuckanut Drive. Curving along the winding coastal path, taking in breathtaking views of the water and the San Juan Islands, this slower-paced scenic alternative to Interstate 5 instantly puts me at ease.

The Oyster Creek Inn comes into view just before you reach the sharpest turn along Chuckanut. Once seated inside in its treehouse-like setting, greenery seems to engulf you.

"This is a little slice of heaven right here," one patron said to his lunch companions as I passed their table. Seated again at a window table overlooking the rushing water below, I had to agree.

Mixed wild greens arrived piled high atop a chilled plate, topped with circles of red onion, a few salty kalamata olives, and four tomato wedges placed strategically around the dish. The smooth, creamy vinaigrette included sun-dried tomatoes and chipotle peppers, giving it a tangy kick.

A round of oozy, warmed, buttery, oven-baked Brie was served with crunchy toast rounds. I stopped counting the roasted garlic cloves after 20. The melting cheese mixed with the roasted garlic cloves make for an appetizer that is impressive in its simplicity.

Whether you're looking for an impressive locale for a business lunch or a romantic dinner for a special occasion, the Oyster Creek Inn is a fail-safe option.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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