Wonderful, wonderful

Moshi Moshi Sushi exceeds expectations

Stacee Sledge

Jun 12, 2003 Before my recent visit to Moshi Moshi Sushi in Sunset Square, I have to admit I wasn't very excited about going to a strip mall for dinner. Too often I find strip-mall eateries bland and unadventurous, especially when they're part of a large chain. But sometimes I forget how different and wonderful Bellingham can be.

Open since November, Moshi Moshi Sushi is a colorful Japanese restaurant and sushi bar that forms a welcome oasis in the middle of strip-mall miasma.

From the moment we walked in the door, it didn't fit any preconceived notion I had unfairly held.

The vibrant décor mixes calm and class with cool slate floors and bright mango-colored walls. Deep blue pendant lights hang above each table, bringing a modern touch to the ancient tradition of Japanese cuisine.

As is so often the case when we know we're going out for a restaurant review meal, my husband and I were famished when we sat down. Everything on the menu looked enticing.

Moshi Moshi Sushi

Location: 
1155 E. Sunset Drive

Phone: 756-6017

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday

Serving: Japanese cuisine in a colorful setting.

Menu items sampled: 
Spicy agedashi $4.25 
Gyoza $3.60 
California roll $3.95 
Yakisoba $7.50 
Saba shioyaki $11.80

We quickly agreed on two appetizers, then sat back to enjoy the energetic interior, while trying to ignore the massive parking lot on the other side of the glass. The only addition I'd like to see to this near-perfect décor would be a larger shoji screen to obscure that view.

We began with two appetizers, both served on striking rectangular ceramic dishes.

The spicy agedashi was new to me, three sizeable squares of deep-fried tofu served on lettuce leaves and garnished with small circles of scallion. The slightly crisp tempura batter was a fitting balance to the soft tofu. The spicy sauce gave a definite kick, cooled by swigs from our tall glasses of ice water.

Gyoza is my preferred Japanese appetizer, and Moshi Moshi's, while perhaps on the small side, ranked among my favorite versions. Six petite portions were slightly browned on the edges, plumped with flavorful filling. The accompanying dipping sauce was served in a charming shell-shaped bowl.

While my husband enjoyed a cup of miso soup and its punctuation of tofu and scallion, I worked on six springy California rolls stuffed with imitation crab, avocado and cucumber. The edges had been carefully rolled in masago, tiny orange fish eggs that added a wonderful finishing flavor. As always, I married too much wasabi with soy sauce in the small rectangular bowl provided for the dipping sauce concoction, and my eyes watered even as I enjoyed the rolls.

After so much pre-entreé goodness, it's no surprise I had little room for my yakisoba, a dish of pan-fried noodles mingled with beef and vegetables amidst a slightly sweet sauce. I savored a few bitefuls and then shared much of it with my husband.

All the while, he was working happily on his entreé of saba shioyaki, a simple yet delicious dish of broiled mackerel with salt. A bowl of rice accompanied the fish, as well as an intriguing potato-based side salad that was reminiscent in texture of American potato salad, sans mayonnaise or mustard. It was a delightful surprise.

Although we didn't have room, for dessert you can choose from three flavors of ice cream: mango, ginger or green tea.

Moshi Moshi Sushi is definitely worth a try if you're a serious sushi connoisseur. Sushi, nigiri, sashimi and maki are available in dozens of varieties. I've heard wonderful things about many of its offerings, including the spicy California roll, a deep-fried version of the more common California roll, served with a sweet sauce. I'm also yearning to try salmon nigiri.

Moshi Moshi also offers takeout. I'll be tempted to take it up on that in the future, but if you're going, be sure to first sample the vibrant environs and fabulous service as well as the flavorful food.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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