Calumet
rarely fails to please
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Stacee
Sledge
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Dec
6, 2001 — The
perfect dining experience can be elusive. A delightful dish may be
tainted by wretched service, while middling food can be overlooked
when you have a friendly waitperson. When all the elements meld
together — a welcoming atmosphere, thoughtfully prepared food and
an attentive server — a memorable meal results.
When I finished grad school in Des Moines, Iowa, and moved to
Bellingham five years ago, my idea of a satisfying dining
experience was far simpler. Living in the Pacific Northwest has
broadened my dining horizons, offering fresh produce and seafood
of a quality that was rarely available back in the Midwest. The
variety of cuisine available in our region's restaurants — from
salmon caught that morning to organically grown marionberries — delights and intrigues.
The Calumet has become a regular stop on my never-ending search
for the ideal meal in Bellingham, and it consistently comes
closest to hitting the mark. Aside from one minor mishap long ago
(impressive as it may be to some, I prefer when a server writes
down the menu selections for a large group), I've always been
rewarded with an evening of interesting food and considerate table
service.
Tucked between the Newsstand and Cellophane Square downtown,
the atmosphere at the Calumet is warm and inviting, with a lightly
modern sheen tossed into the mix. In the winter, a wood stove
burns brightly, adding coziness to the brick-walled,
high-ceilinged space.
The Calumet is a great place for an after-work martini (they
have a dizzying display of cocktails to choose from) and
appetizers, or a full-on meal finished with a delectable dessert
and glass of port.
On our most recent visit, the place was filled nearly to
capacity, even on a Tuesday evening. All four of my dining
companions ordered different items, and each one met with raves — from a subtle yet sublime risotto with locally grown
chanterelle mushrooms and fresh rosemary to the ravioli special,
stuffed with white bean hummus, spinach, roasted garlic, and
parmesan, then tossed with roasted red peppers, mushrooms, and
extra virgin olive oil.
The
Calumet
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Location:
113 East Magnolia Street
Phone: 733-3331
Menu items sampled:
Insalada con funghi $7.95
Potato gnocchi $7.50
Ravioli special $16
Grilled tenderloin $19.95
Cuban pork $16.95
Chocolate crème brûlée $5
Fallen chocolate cake $5 |
One friend built his meal out of two of the Calumet's
appetizers. He began with the insalada con funghi, which can be
ordered as a starter salad or a full entrée. Its wilted baby
greens rested under a layer of sautéed mushrooms, sage, and fresh
asparagus, topped with mozzarella and roasted garlic cream. The
combination of cold and warm was an unexpected and welcome
departure from the average salad.
As an entrée, he ordered the potato gnocchi. The fresh potato
dumplings were bathed in a rich basil cream sauce that included
sun-dried tomatoes and shiitake mushrooms. The sauce was a
full-flavored heavy cream, yet light to the taste.
My selection of the grilled tenderloin was outstanding. Served
with a spiced merlot syrup that expertly balanced all the flavors
on my plate, the meat was prepared exactly to my specifications
and virtually dissolved in my mouth.
Side dishes grab attention at the Calumet. A savory wild
mushroom bread pudding was served with my tenderloin, as well as a
peppery braised kale. Not your average trimmings, just one of many
reasons to love this eatery.
Another of my cohorts ordered the Cuban pork, a tender cut of
meat braised in chili, cumin and lime. The roasting gave this
fiery dish a pleasant crispiness. The jus was savory, but did not
overwhelm. Another intriguing side dish was served with this entrée:
plantain fritters, which were not as sweet as one might
anticipate. The plantain was shredded, similar in texture to a
sweet potato, drizzled with a chipotle cream sauce, and spiked
with chilies.
I'm not generally a dessert fan, but my husband is, so he
gladly offered to try the crème brûlée. The delicate, velvety
custard was infused with Godiva and Grand Marnier liqueurs, then
crowned with a crisp, caramelized topping. Airy and full of
flavor, one nibble made me wish I had room for dessert — the fallen
chocolate cake with crème anglaise and raspberry sauce looked
especially inviting.
Recipes from the Calumet have been featured several times on
recent KCTS cooking shows. Hopefully this exposure will inspire
even more patrons to experience this charming Bellingham
establishment.
The
Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine
alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop
me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.
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